In this episode I take off one of the wheels to measure it. I studied the Wheel Vintiques Fitment Guide to figure out what to measure.
A. RIM DIAMETER
This is the actual diameter of the wheel at the point where the tire bead seats (not the outer lip).
B. RIM WIDTH
Measure this from the inside of the outer lip at the bead seating point to the inner lip.
A very important measurement is from the inside of the wheel at the point where it contacts the hub, brake drum or axle flange to the outside edge (lip) of the wheel.
D. BOLT PATTERN
Count the number of mounting holes for the wheel and determine the diameter of a circle that would run through their center.
Measuring the distance between the centers of adjacent holes, D
If D = 2-5/8", then the bolt pattern is 5 on 4-1/2"
If D = 2-3/4", then the bolt pattern is 5 on 4-3/4"
If D = 3", then the bolt pattern is 5 on 5"
If D = 3-1/4", then the bolt pattern is 5 on 5-1/2"
Notice none of the websites are particularly concerned about the hole in the middle. Well it's damned important! The hubs on this trailer require a 4" hole in the wheel, way bigger than average.
The tire being on the wheel means I can't measure the rim width directly. But that and the rim diameter are stamped in the metal. 15x6. That'd be 15 inches by 6 inches.
These wheels have 7" tires on them. I almost couldn't get them in the wheel wells. I must be careful not to go any bigger than this.
I have seen some people doing vintage Airstream rebuilds and they put giant aggressive wheels and nobby tires on them. This is absolutely not the way I'm going with Ally Mo. The wheels are meant to blend in with the whole aesthetic. I am not going for a silk slip and combat boots here.
After I took the wheel off and measured it I put it back on and got ready to move Ally Mo out of the way. My father gave me his old drill press for my art wood project and I need to run power to the shed for it. I've been putting off running power to the shed ever since I moved back here and started fixing this place up. You'll see why. It's not just the expense of copper wire and subpanels, it's the effort of digging in the conduit. It's going to be a bitch. I don't want overhead wires. I'd rather keep running an extension cord to the pole.
I got some help on moving the trailer from Otis Forbes. He used to work for my father's construction company. He helps me with things that are beyond my expertise and ability. When my house foundation failed Otis came with a concrete mixer and his expertise in pouring foundations and helped me fix it. And when I needed to thin some trees he came with a chainsaw and took care of it. Anyway, Otis went by my dad's shop and picked up the drill press and brought it to me. Then we moved the trailer. While he was here I had him get out his chain saw and cut a slice off a light'rd log to see if it would make a good cake plate. It wasn't as fat as I thought so I abandoned that project immediately. But I'm glad to know now.
While we were jacking up the trailer to take out the blocks my brother put under it one of the stacks tipped over and dropped Ally Mo on its noggin. The stack of blocks was turned so the long direction was front to back, like the blocks under Ally Min. This is the wrong direction for stability when jacking up either side. When I put blocks under it in the new location I turned them the other way.
Going forward it seems like I need a three point system for safety. A tongue jack and all four wheels on the ground would be a good start. I may make a little ramp to lift the low side and then put jack stands under.
As a sidebar to this video I have another one where I fix the impact driver that failed to drive a sheet metal screw into an old pine stud.